Crestview Garden Club - Crestview, Florida

Crestview Garden Club - Crestview, Florida We are a garden club based in Crestview, FL with a focus on educating through community partnerships. All experience levels welcome. Come join us!

We meet monthly on the 3rd Wednesday at 1PM at the Okaloosa Extension Office.

Here is some interesting information on the difference between Annuals and Perennials.What is the Difference Between Ann...
10/29/2026

Here is some interesting information on the difference between Annuals and Perennials.

What is the Difference Between Annuals and Perennials?

Many new gardeners have difficulty understanding the difference between annuals and perennials and there is a good reason for that. Some flowers do not follow clear-cut rules assigned to annuals and perennials when grown in the garden. In other words, what may be grown as an annual in one part of the country and may survive as a perennial in another. But before we venture to discuss plants that seem to break the rules, let’s take a look at the technical definition of annuals and perennials.

What Is an Annual?

An annual flower or plant completes its entire life cycle in one year and then dies. That means it germinates from a seed, grows to maturity, produces flowers and sets seed and then dies all within one growing season. An annual will not continue to grow for much longer than a year, even if you bring it inside for the winter. While frost will kill annuals the plant will not live for multiple years even in frost-free areas.

What Is a Perennial?

A perennial plant lives for three years or more often sending up new shoots to form a larger clump each year. Lifting and dividing the roots every 3 to 5 years can keep perennials alive for many years. Many perennials die back to the ground particularly in northern climates, in the fall when cold weather arrives and send up new shoots from the roots in the spring when warm weather returns. Some perennials are evergreen and maintain their foliage all year.

What Is a Tender Perennial?

A tender perennial is a tropical or sub-tropical plant that will grow for several years in a frost-free location, but will die off completely in colder climates. The roots of a tender perennial cannot survive cold winters, however a tender perennial can be summered outside and overwintered inside. When moved back outside in the spring when the weather warms, a tender perennial will resume active growth. Some tender perennials like petunias can tolerate a light frost.

Exceptions

Some flowers like the Black-Eyed Susan can function like either an annual or perennial. In northern climates Black-Eyed Susans thrive for many years as perennials. However when grown in southern climates they produce rapid growth during the summer and die off completely in the fall. The roots do not survive the winter to produce new plants.

Flowers That Mimic Perennials

Biennials

To add more confusion to the mix along comes biennials. These flowers are neither annuals nor perennials but they put on a convincing act as a perennial in the garden. These flowers have a two-year growth habit often forming a rosette of foliage in the late summer that produces blooms the following year. Because there is nearly always first and second year growth occurring at the same time some of the plants are in bloom each year giving the illusion that they are perennials

Some common biennials include hollyhocks, foxglove and pansies. Typically, these plants drop their seeds during the summer which take root and grow to form the first year’s foliage during late summer and fall. The blooming plants die in the fall and the first-year growth resumes growth in the spring and produces new blooms. When undisturbed biennials will repeat the process for years keeping your garden alive with blooms.

Self Seeders

Some flowers are prolific self seeders. These flowers drop their seeds during the late summer and fall, but the seeds do not germinate right away. The seeds overwinter and then germinate and grow when the weather warms in the spring. Some common self-seeding annual flowers include pot marigold, bachelor’s buttons, poppies and larkspur. When allowed to go to seed in the garden these flowers will carry on for years giving the illusion of perennials in the flower bed.

How Do You Know If a Flower Is an Annual or Perennial for Your Location?

North America is divided into 11 planting zones as designated by the USDA plant hardiness zone map. These zones are used by horticulturists, greenhouses and garden centers to designate the zones where a plant is likely to thrive. When buying plants or seeds for direct sowing always check the hardiness zone for the plant.

If you are unsure whether a plant will survive in your area or don’t know its hardiness zone ask for assistance in your local gardening center or contact the Cooperative Extension Office of a local University. They are both an excellent source for determining the best plants for your area.

This weeks seed information is on Burpless Beauty Cucumber.  These grow really well in our area and are very tasty. You ...
10/27/2026

This weeks seed information is on Burpless Beauty Cucumber. These grow really well in our area and are very tasty. You can get these seeds at the Crestview Garden Club seed library located at the Crestview Library.

Burpless Beauty is a popular hybrid slicing cucumber variety.

Key Features & Characteristics

Fruit Type:

Long, thin-skinned, deep green slicing cucumbers with pure white, firm flesh and small seed cavities.

Flavor & Texture:

Sweet, crisp, juicy, and completely bitter free. Known to stay crisp longer than many other varieties

Maturity:

Ready to harvest in about 60 days.

Fruit Size:

Around 8 inches long (though individual fruits can grow larger).

Plant Habit:

Super-productive annual vines with a mature spread of about 4 feet.

Growing Conditions:

Requires full sun and outdoor direct sowing. Thrives across USDA zones 1 through 13

Here is some information on 10 backyard garden flowers that are hard to kill. These might make a great addition to your ...
10/24/2026

Here is some information on 10 backyard garden flowers that are hard to kill. These might make a great addition to your garden.

10 Backyard Garden Flowers You Can’t Kill

Do you live in a harsh environment and need to plant some hardy flowers? While it may seem impossible there are 10 backyard garden flowers that can withstand various conditions and you cannot kill.

If you are looking for a variety of backyard flowers to fill your garden look no further than the list below.

1. Begonia

If you want something that is bright and loud, giving your garden all types of color options then you should consider the Begonia. While it does prefer shaded areas it can withstand the beating sun in areas that are sunny and warm. If you have an area where there are mild winters, few frosts and very little snow, you will truly have a hard time getting rid of these flowers.

2. Coneflower

Another bright option, the coneflower shoots up high on a stem very much like the sunflower. The difference is the bright colors that go deep in red, purple and pink shades. They enjoy direct sunlight, shooting high to reach the sun, making sure they get it over any other flower nearby.

3. Hostas

If you are looking to add that luscious green color to your garden then you need to move forward with Hostas for your next landscaping project. They can adapt to almost all environments making them great for places that are warm but also those areas that are cooler most of the time.

4. Daylillies

Now this is a flower that is as resilient as it is beautiful. Daylilies not only come in a variety of colors but their patterns can vary as well. They want full sun and can manage in soil that has not been watered regularly. When they bloom it is usually sticking around for a day or two before falling off and starting again. These flowers return each year and are often back in larger numbers since they spread easily.

5. Marigolds

A beam of sunshine across the ground, Marigolds light up the lawns and gardens where they grow with their bright color. They are found at nearly every home, return annually, and can withstand some of the harshest weather conditions out there. Too dry? Too warm? Maybe even chillier than normal? These conditions are not a problem for Marigolds until the frost comes.

6. Petunias

Lying low to the ground those pink and purple flowers that you planted maybe several years ago are back in your garden again this year. It takes nothing to grow petunias as they only need water once a week. In many places a weekly rain shower is enough to keep them alive. Plant them in the shade or even in the direct sun, as they can manage either one.

7. Butterfly W**d

Sometimes you may be on the hunt for a flower that can be accommodated by various soil conditions. Butterfly W**d is one that can find a way to survive in all soil types no matter how sandy, full of clay, or even rocky it may be beneath the surface.

Not only will you enjoy the presence of the Butterfly W**d but so will its namesake, birds, and bees. It is great for pollination and used by many farmers to one their fields so the bees will pollinate their plants.

8. Spider Flower

If you do not have a lot of time to put into a flower but want to brighten up your space the Spider Flower is a great option to consider. It is so independent with growing that most just simply toss the seeds into the soil, cover it and walk away. They will take root in almost every condition but freezing cold and will start to sprout in a matter of days.

9. Moss Rose

Meant for the desert and those extreme conditions the Moss Rose is another hardy backyard garden flower. If it can survive the extreme conditions of the desert then it can withstand your backyard when you forget to water your garden for a few days. It holds water within the plant releasing as needed so that maintains its own hydration. The leaves on the Moss Rose look similar to your traditional rose but have a succulent texture.

10. Zinnias

Growing up to 3 feet for flower, the Zinnia will stand tall all summer long in its various colors. It can be pink, orange, yellow, red, purple or even white. They prefer a spot in the direct sun so that they can grow tall and towards its direction.

When you plant Zinnias in your garden you may see more butterflies and bees as they are attracted to these flowers. You don’t have to worry about them either if there is a rain shortage that summer.

It was a wonderful time at the extension office today. Margaret Stewart did an outstanding discussion on seed harvesting...
10/21/2026

It was a wonderful time at the extension office today. Margaret Stewart did an outstanding discussion on seed harvesting and storage. The club got a lot of seeds sorted for check out at the library. We appreciate all the help today. This was another awesome day.

This weeks seed information is on Lemon Drop Basil herbs. These have many uses and grow well   You can get these seeds f...
10/20/2026

This weeks seed information is on Lemon Drop Basil herbs. These have many uses and grow well You can get these seeds from the Crestview Garden Club seed library located in the Crestview library.

Lemon drop basil and lemon basil varieties

Ocimum basilicum are aromatic citrus-scented herbs known for combining traditional sweet basil notes with a sharp refreshing lemon flavor.

Plant Characteristics & Growth

Flavor & Aroma:

Features an intense, bright citrus fragrance without the heavy anise or licorice undertones found in some other basils.

Plant Size:

Grows into a compact bushy annual reaching 12 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide.

Appearance:

Displays vibrant medium-green, pointed leaves and delicate white flowers that attract pollinators like bees.

Growing Conditions:

Thrives in full sun 6 to 8 hours daily and well-drained soil. They work well in garden beds, raised beds, or patio containers.

Culinary & Beverage Uses

Cocktails & Mocktails:

Commonly muddled into a Basil Lemon Drop (combining vodka, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, and muddled basil or limoncello) or steeped into lemon-basil iced teas and coolers.

Cooking:

Ideal chopped or minced for fish and seafood dishes, summer salads, salad dressings, stir-fries, and fruit or herb sorbets.

Preserving:

Can be dried for winter seasoning or blended into frozen pestos

Here’s the latest update on the garden up at the Common Ground Garden in Crestview. I stopped by this morning for a look...
10/19/2026

Here’s the latest update on the garden up at the Common Ground Garden in Crestview. I stopped by this morning for a look. Everything is growing nicely.

Here is some information on mums. These tips are very useful.Do Mums Really Need Water Every Day? Key pointsWater mums o...
10/18/2026

Here is some information on mums. These tips are very useful.

Do Mums Really Need Water Every Day?

Key points

Water mums often in fall because their soil dries quickly especially during warm days.
Check dry topsoil or drooping leaves to know when your mums need a drink.
Water at the base and ensure drainage to help prevent pests, mildew, and fungal problems.

It’s tough to picture fall front porches without mums. The pink, purple, yellow, or red flowers are seasonal icons, but they require a lot of care, especially when it comes to watering.

Do you really need to water mums every day to keep them vibrant and fluffy?

Does the guidance differ whether they’re growing in the ground or in planters?

How Often to Water Chrysanthemums

You will want to water your mums every day or every other day in fall and the reason is because mums dry out quickly.

In the early days of fall when daytime temperatures are still hot you might even need to water potted mums twice a day.

When days get shorter and cooler gradually back off on watering or you will end up with an array of other issues.
When the top inch of the soil is dry that’s your cue to water and the best way to check this is by sticking a finger in the container (or the ground) to see if it’s damp.
Another indicator that you need to water is in the leaves which will droop when it’s time to water. Fortunately they are forgiving and will perk back up after being watered.

How to Water Mums Properly

Watering mums requires some finesse because while mums are very thirsty plants they are also susceptible to disease if waterlogged or splashed with water in the wrong places.

For both potted and hardy mums, water near the base of the plant and avoid getting the tops and leaves overly wet as this can attract aphids and foster mildew and fungal growth.

Note any yellowing leaves on your plant; this might be an indicator of disease and improper watering.

Because mums dry out easily mulching helps keep the roost moist and it also acts as a barrier to prevent the body of the plant from getting splashed with water.

You can use a hose or watering can to water mums.

Make sure to thoroughly water and continue until drops fall from the drainage hole at the bottom of your mum container. If you’re using a container from the garden center you will want to remove any foil wrapping and poke additional holes in it so that the planter has proper drainage.

If mums are in the ground, which is common for USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 9 add water if there is less than 1 inch of rain per week.

More Tips for Long-Lasting Mums

Soaking isn’t the only thing you should be doing to keep your potted mums healthy and happy through fall.

Don’t Buy Them Too Early

Buying mums too early is one of the biggest mistakes people make. Mums are cool weather plants and don’t do well in summer heat.

While it’s tempting to buy them as soon as they appear in the nursery hold off until your temperatures are consistently between 60°F and 75°F. Any warmer and they will dry out more quickly and feel heat stress.

Choose Healthy Mums at the Store

There are a couple of things you should look for at the store when shopping for mums. First know the difference between hardy mums (which you can plant in the ground and they’ll come back next year)

Keep Them Well-Watered

As with other potted plants, potted mums will need to be watered on a regular basis to prevent them from drying out. Aim to water yours at least twice a week, giving them a good soak and consider watering them more often if you notice them drying out more quickly.

Don’t Place Mums in Full Shade

We all love having mums on our porches, but if your porch doesn’t get at least six hours of sunlight per day your mums will begin to suffer.

Be sure to place them on your stairs or on the front edge of your porch rather than too far back to ensure they are getting adequate sunlight. Otherwise, they can get leggy and lose their flowers.

Here are some good tips for caring for and growing Christmas Cactus. Five common Christmas Cactus Mistakes and how to fi...
10/15/2026

Here are some good tips for caring for and growing Christmas Cactus.

Five common Christmas Cactus Mistakes and how to fix them.

If you’ve ever owned a Christmas Cactus that looked healthy but refused to bloom or dropped buds right before the holidays you’re not alone.

Here’s the thing:

Christmas Cactus is easy to grow but it’s not a typical cactus.

Treating it like one is where most gardeners run into trouble.

Theses are the five biggest mistakes gardeners make.

1. Watering It Like a Desert Cactus

This is probably the most common mistake.

Because it has “cactus” in the name, many gardeners assume it needs very little water. But Christmas Cactus is actually a tropical cactus native to humid forests not dry deserts.

If you underwater it the fleshy leaves will start to look limp and shriveled. Overwater it and you risk root rot.

What works better:

Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Stick your finger right into the pot. Make sure excess water drains out completely. These plants hate soggy soil but they also don’t want to be bone dry for long periods.

2. Giving It Too Much Direct Sun

Too much direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch, faded color, and overall stress.

They thrive in bright indirect light.

What works better:

An east-facing window is ideal. You’ll get gentle morning sun without the harsh afternoon rays. If your plant is near a bright south or west window just pull it back a few feet or filter the light with a sheer curtain.

Healthy Christmas Cactus foliage should be glossy and rich green not pale or reddish.

3. Missing the Bloom-Trigger Window

This one frustrates a lot of gardeners because everything else seems right.

Christmas Cactus need a specific signal to bloom:
c
long nights and cooler temperatures. If your plant is exposed to lamps, TVs, or overhead lights at night in fall it may never set buds.

What works better:

Starting in early fall give your plant 12–14 hours of complete darkness each night for about 6–8 weeks. Cover with a box after dinner. It doesn’t have to be fancy just consistent.

Cooler night timetemps (around 50–65°F) help too. Once buds appear stop covering it and enjoy the show.

4. Repotting Too Often

Christmas Cactus actually blooms better when slightly root-bound. Frequent repotting encourages leaf growth at the expense of flowers.

What works better:

Repot only every 2–3 years and only go up one pot size. If your plant is in a 6″ grow pot move it to an 8″ pot and not bigger. Use a light well-draining mix designed for houseplants or succulents.

5. Moving the Plant Once Buds Appear

This is the heartbreak moment.

You see buds forming move the plant to another spot and suddenly the buds fall off.

Christmas Cactus hates change once it’s budding.

What works better:

Once buds appear leave the plant exactly where it is. Same light, same temperature, same routine. Even rotating the pot can cause buds to drop.

Keep your hands off is the best approach.

Christmas Cactus Quick Care Checklist

Light:

Bright, indirect light (east-facing windows are ideal)

Water:

Water when the top 1″-2″ of soil is dry – never let it sit in soggy soil

Soil:

Well-draining potting mix (succulent blend works well)

Temperature:

Prefers 60–70°F; cooler nights (50–65°F) help trigger blooms

Bloom Prep:

12-14 hours of complete darkness nightly for 6–8 weeks in fall

Repotting:

Every 2-3 years only and just one pot size up

While Budding:

Don’t move, rotate, or change its environment

Bonus Tip:

Slightly root-bound plants often bloom better

Today, the Crestview Garden Club participated in the Florida Federation of Garden Clubs - District 1 fall meeting, where...
10/13/2026

Today, the Crestview Garden Club participated in the Florida Federation of Garden Clubs - District 1 fall meeting, where we were welcomed into the district. Military service members and their families were also honored at this meeting as part of the 250th celebration of the USA. We also received a $350 grant for the Crestview Garden Club seed library. This is awesome news.

This weeks seed information is on Nantes Supreme Carrots. These seeds came be found and checked out at the Crestview Gar...
10/13/2026

This weeks seed information is on Nantes Supreme Carrots. These seeds came be found and checked out at the Crestview Garden Club seed library at the Crestview library. Here is also an interesting article written by Amy Grant which has a lot of great information.

Nantes Supreme carrots are a uniform, early-maturing carrot variety known for producing crisp, sweet, cylindrical roots with blunt tips.

Key Characteristics

Root Size:

Grows roughly 7 to 8 inches long.

Texture & Flavor:

Tender, coreless, and very sweet.

Storage:

Storability is better and longer than standard Nantes-type varieties.

Maturity:

Ready to harvest in around 80 days.

Growing Tips

Soil:

Plant in deep, loose, loamy, and stone-free soil.

Sunlight:

Requires full sun.

Timing:

Sow directly in the ground after the danger of heavy frost has passed.

What Are Nantes Carrots: How To Grow Nantes Carrots

By Amy Grant

Unless you grow your own carrots or haunt farmer’s markets, my guess is your knowledge of carrots is somewhat limited. For instance, did you know that there are actually four major types of carrot, each grown for its unique qualities? These four include: Danvers, Nantes, Imperator, and Chantenay. This article focuses on growing Nantes carrots, Nantes carrot information, and Nantes carrot care. Read on to find out just what Nantes carrots are and how to grow Nantes carrots.

What are Nantes Carrots?

Nantes carrots were first mentioned and described in the 1885 edition of the Henri Vilmorin family seed catalogue. He stated that this carrot variety has a nearly perfect cylindrical root and smooth, almost red, skin that is mild and sweet in flavor. Revered for their sweet, crisp flavor, Nantes carrots are rounded at both the tip and root end.
Additional Nantes Carrot Information

Carrots originated over 5,000 years ago in present day Afghanistan, and these first carrots were cultivated for their purple root. Eventually, carrots were divided into two categories: atrorubens and sativus. Atrobuens arose from the east and had yellow to purple roots, while sativus carrots had orange, yellow, and sometimes white roots. During the 17th century, a favoring for orange carrots became the vogue and purple carrots fell out of favor. At that time, the Dutch developed carrots with the deeper orange carotene pigment we know today. Nantes carrots were named for the city on the French Atlantic Coast whose countryside is ideal for Nantes cultivation. Soon after its development, Nantes became a favorite of the consumer due to its sweeter flavor and more tender texture. Today, there are at least six varieties of carrot that bear the Nantes name, but Nantes has come to represent more than 40 members of carrots with medium-sized, cylindrical roots that are both rounded at the top and bottom.

How to Grow Nantes Carrots

All carrots are cool weather veggies that should be planted in the spring. Nantes carrots are harvested from late summer through fall. Sow seeds for carrots with other frost tolerant crops as soon as the soil has warmed in the spring and all danger of frost has passed. Prepare a bed that has been plowed down to a depth of 8 to 9 inches. Break up clumps and rake out large rocks and debris. If you have a very clay laden soil, consider growing the carrots in a raised bed. Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep in the early spring. Space rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Germination may take up to two weeks, so bring your patience. Thin the seedlings to 3 inches apart when they are an inch tall.

Nantes Carrot Care

When growing Nantes carrots, or really any type of carrot, keep an eye on the irrigation. Carrots germinate best in warm, moist soil. Cover the soil with clear polyethylene while the seeds germinate. Remove the film when seedlings appear. Keep the bed damp as the carrots grow. Carrots need moisture to prevent splitting. Keep weeds cultivated from around the seedlings. Be careful and use a shallow cultivator or hoe so as to not injure the roots. Harvest of Nantes carrots will be about 62 days from direct sowing when they are around 2 inches across, although the smaller the sweeter. Your family will love these sweet carrots, packed even higher than store bought carrots with vitamins A and B and rich in calcium and phosphorus.

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Crestview, FL
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