10/20/2026
No. 02 — DEYANIRA AQUINO PINEDA: LA TECA
If you live in Oaxaca, you eat at La Teca. It is practically a rite of passage.
But eating at La Teca is much more than going to a restaurant. You walk through her garage, past her kitchen, through her living room, and into her patio. When it rains, the tables move back inside. And sooner or later, La Teca herself comes out to sit with you, usually with a glass of mezcal from Amatengo.
Deyanira Aquino Pineda, known to everyone as La Teca, has spent decades preserving the culinary traditions of Oaxaca’s Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Her restaurant celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2024.
Over the past twenty-five years, I have eaten there more times than I can count. It remains one of my favorite places in Oaxaca. The food is extraordinary, but La Teca herself is a force of nature.
So much so that in 2012, when I was asked to take writer Calvin Trillin to my favorite restaurant in Oaxaca for a story in The New Yorker, there was really only one choice.
At some point during lunch, Calvin asked how often I ate there.
“Once or twice a week,” I replied.
“If you only eat here twice a week, you show incredible restraint,” he said.
I could not have put it better myself.
When you come Oaxaca, come to Restaurante La Teca