Country Look

Country Look Britain’s independent guide to the places, people and experiences worth seeking out. Home of the Countrylook Awards. Established 2006.

Why Robin Hood’s Bay Was Built Like ThisFrom above, Robin Hood’s Bay looks almost as though its houses have slipped slow...
24/10/2026

Why Robin Hood’s Bay Was Built Like This

From above, Robin Hood’s Bay looks almost as though its houses have slipped slowly down the cliff towards the sea.

There was never much room to begin with. The old village occupies a steep ravine where two becks meet the North Sea, so generations of fishermen built wherever the ground allowed. Houses went up against houses. Paths became narrow passages. Steps appeared where roads were impossible.

The result is the extraordinary jumble that survives today.

Many cottages are deeper and stranger than their small fronts suggest. Buildings were extended backwards, cellars were dug into the hillside and neighbouring properties became interconnected. This proved extremely useful during the eighteenth century, when smuggling became one of the Bay’s most profitable activities.

Tea, gin, to***co and other heavily taxed goods could be landed on the beach at night and moved rapidly uphill. Customs officers faced a nightmare: steep lanes, concealed yards, interconnected houses and dozens of possible hiding places. The famous claim that contraband could travel from the beach to the top of the village without appearing outside may be folklore, but it perfectly describes the architecture smugglers exploited.

There was another reason for building so tightly: weather.

North Sea storms can be brutal. The packed houses offered one another shelter, while pantile roofs, thick stone walls and narrow lanes helped create protection from winds coming off the water.

Then there is the hill itself.

Anyone who walks down to the harbour eventually has to walk back up. Cars are largely absent from the oldest streets because many routes simply weren’t made for them.

Robin Hood’s Bay wasn’t designed to be picturesque.

Its famous appearance is really the accumulated result of fishermen needing shelter, families needing houses, smugglers needing hiding places and everyone needing to fit into a very small piece of Yorkshire cliff.

Christmas shopping in Buxton deserves an overnight bag. Buying the presents is an excellent excuse for a weekend that al...
20/10/2026

Christmas shopping in Buxton deserves an overnight bag. Buying the presents is an excellent excuse for a weekend that also includes a long lunch, a walk through Pavilion Gardens and an evening at the Opera House. Book a table, book the theatre and give yourself an afternoon with no particular deadline.

The town has some wonderfully peculiar places to browse. Cavendish Arcade occupies the former thermal baths, so you can find yourself examining a Victorian plunge pool between looking at jewellery and choosing chocolates. The Minton tiles survive, too. Buxton’s past is often like this: you encounter it while getting on with something else, then stop to have a better look.

At Christmas, there is plenty to stay for. This year’s pantomime is Sleeping Beauty at the Opera House, Frank Matcham’s extravagant Edwardian theatre. Over at Poole’s Cavern, festive lights illuminate the limestone chambers, taking an afternoon’s exploring underground. With children, that gives you quite a weekend; without them, there is no obligation to explain why you still want to go to the pantomime.

18/10/2026

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Robin Hood’s Bay has never been short of smuggling stories, but one of its best involves neither a secret tunnel nor a s...
09/10/2026

Robin Hood’s Bay has never been short of smuggling stories, but one of its best involves neither a secret tunnel nor a ship arriving under cover of darkness. In 1886, an elderly sailor recalled how two local women set off for Whitby with bladders of gin or brandy concealed beneath their skirts. When a customs officer spotted them, one woman promptly sat down beside a hedge and began groaning. Her companion scolded the officer for his lack of concern and sent him to fetch a doctor. By the time he returned, the women had escaped with their precious cargo. Later that day, he encountered one of them in Whitby and asked whether she had been safely delivered. “Aye, Sir, down there by the quay,” she replied with a grin. It is a story that makes the Bay’s quiet little passageways seem rather less innocent than they first appear.

26/09/2026

What a beautiful moment

Arlington Row
25/09/2026

Arlington Row

The Isle of Mull by then amazing Nicola Turner
24/09/2026

The Isle of Mull by then amazing Nicola Turner

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